Against the backdrop of a pandemic and unprecedented political, social and environmental crises, American culture has been dominated by extraordinary power in recent years.
As a result, the fashion industry, one of the country’s largest creative sectors (apparel and footwear valued at $ 1.9 trillion in the United States in 2019) and one of the most powerful means of expression, is a stock market. I was forced to get it.
Of course, the industry has been working on Covid-19’s impact on its ability to manufacture, present and sell clothing. But designers and labels are also aware of invisible complexity.
For example, during the resurgence of the Black Lives Matter movement, fashion faced unpleasant questions about diversity and lack of elite culture. Silence over social and political issues has become increasingly regarded as a form of collusion, and many American fashion designers have become candid activists. Sustainability, on the other hand, has forced the agenda to rise in almost every fashion business.
There is a growing sense that the industry is on the verge of a brave new era. Still, it’s still very defined.
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That’s a lot at the same time, according to Vogue’s editor-in-chief and one of the longest-serving arbitrators of American aesthetics, Anna Wintour.
“American fashion celebrates vibrancy, joy and creativity. It hasn’t changed,” Winter, who has been chairing the Met Gala since 1995, said in an email: We all live, as seen through many different lenses. ”
This patchwork was fully exhibited during New York Fashion Week, which ended Sunday night. In a six-day runway show and presentation, dozens of designers provide up-to-date views on how Americans can and should be dressed today. Did.
Here are some highlights of New York Fashion Week Summer Sping-2022: As you can see in this sunset-colored ball gown, watercolor painting was a recurring theme in Jason Wu’s latest show. Scroll for more information. credit: Caitlin Ochs / Reuters
A show by the indie label Imitation of Christ, performed at St. Marks Church in the Bowery, posed by the cast of nearly 80 performers, many of whom were absent from work for Covid-19 for months. Upcycled clothing that danced unrestrained. After the show’s choreography was over, some of the models grabbed the balloon strings and ran down the street, inviting passers-by to an improvisational parade.
At the Collina Strada show the day before, adults and children walked hand in hand and were immersed in bright psychedelic prints that didn’t feel strange as they strolled around Venice Beach in Los Angeles.
Elsewhere, Nepalese American designer Prabal Gurung is famous for putting a runway model in the sash that says “Who will be American” in 2019. -I asked another question in his latest collection “American Girl”: Who will be a woman?
“America has always been a woman, but she isn’t always treated beautifully,” he wrote in a shownote. “What does it mean to be the most important person in this country? What is a woman? What is America? And who will be all or not at all?”
Model Aaron Philip’s debut at Moschino. credit: Mary Altafer / AP
For Scott, American fashion, like the country itself, is a “crucible of style, taste and personality,” he said in an email.
“Traditionally,’sportswear’ was one of the mainstays of American fashion,” he added. “In the last few decades, the definition of sportswear has expanded and changed more than ever.”
Scott’s design is one of the 100 or so ensembles on display at “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion.” Other American big names like Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, and the late Holston will also be featured, but the show goes beyond established names and is an American designer from Liberia who has turned the label behind it. Spotlights some of the brightest and independent talents of American fashion, including Telfer Clements, almost every fashion norm, from gender binaries to runway show formats. (His tote bag called “Bushwick Birkin” is sold out forever.)
Becca McCharen-Tran, who runs Miami-based swimwear and ready-to-wear label Chromat, will also be featured. She has been advocating inclusiveness since the beginning of her career, and now everyone is worthy of this space.
“Ten years ago, the situation was very different,” McCharen-Tran emailed to CNN style. “It took a lot of effort and intent to find a plus-size model, a transformer model, and even a color model. Now that’s the bare minimum you’d expect from a runway cast. That should be. ! ”
Leyna Bloom will walk the Chromat runway in September 2019. credit: Mike Coppola / Getty Images
Other young designers at the Metropolitan Museum of Art may be in the early stages of their careers, but this doesn’t mean they haven’t made history yet. In July, Pyer Moss founder and creative director Kerby Jean-Raymond became the first black designer to appear on the official schedule for Haute Couture Week in Paris.
Held away from New York, his couture show was performed at the former home of Madam CJ Walker, a cosmetologist who is considered the first black woman’s homebrew millionaire in the United States. Jean-Raymond’s design is a hymn to African-American inventors and entrepreneurs, celebrating their historic creations with a bold silhouette that references everything from oversized peanut butter bottles to cell phones. I did.
“I wanted to use the stage to share with other black Americans who inspired me, and the blacks who inspired me,” he told CNN after the July show. “So I chose to make the collection, in a way, a highlight reel of many things that we have contributed to society as a whole.”
Pyer Moss’ haute couture collection was inspired by the black inventor and his work. Scroll through the gallery to see a selection of show looks. credit: David X Prutting / BFA.com / Courtesy of Pyer Moss
According to the exhibition’s press release, part of the Costume Institute’s mission is to “establish a modern vocabulary of fashion.” This is the mission of American icon Tommy Hilfiger in an email: “I think the new vocabulary represents a fashion that truly connects you at the individual level. I think it’s a more thoughtful gathering of consumers, brands and cultures. It’s a deliberate way.”
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“Designers are more independent than ever, with unique perspectives, sensibilities, and …