I first came to Sus on a hot afternoon in August. I wanted to visit a few months ago. Thai noodle soup is a restaurant specialty, and while New York City’s summers aren’t friendly to anyone, it’s especially tough for those who like noodle soup. When you think of a bowl of burned soup when the city looks under the temperatures of the 90’s, you can feel like Alex in his readjusted “A Clockwork Orange” of anticipation and horror. The internal battle begins.
Of course, summer in Thailand is not a picnic either. The country has an ingenious and easy solution to the hot soup problem in August. That means you can put the soup in a separate bowl and chill while eating everything else. This style is oxymoronically called dry noodle soup. It had a huge impact on Soothr’s menu and helped remove fear from my first bowl of soup that afternoon and tempt me for a few more meals.
The particular dry noodle soup I ate was a variation of Tom Yum. Sour and fragrant Tom Yum Kung and shrimp are fairly uniform take-out staples throughout the United States. However, in Thailand, there are dozens of variations in themes, including those from Sukhothai Central State that incorporate the salty pink comma of dried shrimp. This is the version of Soothr.
Of course, you can also enjoy it as a regular “wet” soup. In that case, rice noodles, sliced roast pork, and elastic fishcake are almost submerged in fresh lime and tart pork broth. Lemongrass and McLutlime leaves. However, when obtained as a dry soup, citrus juices and fragrance pastes are a powerful sauce for noodles. You’ll find that the soup served in a side cup is cold enough to drink, rich in pork flavor, and not complicated by limes and other seasonings. Alternating a bite of tart, spicy noodles and warm soup is a fascinating experience in any weather.
Soothr (pronounced soood, a rhyme to the mood) opened in the summer of 2020 and has been successful for several months with just takeaway and an outdoor table. A year later, the dining room became full-scale. In fact, it’s almost always full, as well as the patio behind East 13th Street and the two tops in front, except for a short pause from 4pm to 5pm when employees take a breather.
The interior manages a clean combination of modern New York industry (exposed rafters and ducts, steel accordion gates between tables) and early traces (neon swirls, rotating payphones). The jade gray walls have a soft luster like glazed pottery. The effect is suggestive and suggestive. It’s as if you were taken to a place and time that you couldn’t completely identify.
You might feel the same with a laminated placemat-sized cocktail menu, each named after a gem. At first glance, it appears to have been recovered from a Chinese Polynesian restaurant with a name like Double Dragon Inn on the outskirts of many American cities in the 1960s and 1970s. If you look closely, you’ll find tamarind syrup, elderflower liqueur, and other ingredients that betray the hands of modern Manhattan bartenders. (The hand belongs to one of the owners, Supatta Banklouy.)
Another partner, Hidensee Watthanawongwat, said Soothr was initially conceived as a simple store selling several types of Thai noodles. The third owner, Kittiya Mokkarat, grew up in Scothai with Banklouy and wanted to teach Tom Yum how to eat at home. Watthanawongwat borrowed a meatball recipe from a family sausage maker in northeastern Thailand.
After this simplified concept was taken over by chef Nate Linwan, the menu began to grow. Lingwan, who cooked at NoHo’s Fish Cheeks and Sailors Thai in Sydney, Australia, currently runs a three-page menu, many of which are dedicated to things other than noodles.
Her steamed dumplings are very fine, and the shumai wrap is filled with crispy pork and shrimp stuffing with water chestnuts. Fried chicken in the light and irresistible style of the city of Hat Yai is the taste of white pepper and a heap of garlic.
Lin Wan makes beef salad (yum nuer) with a focus on very flavorful stewed beef. It’s not as packed with fresh hot chili as some other versions, but the use of husk cherries for her sweet tart charge is inspired.
The main course, pork ribs called cyclonpad ped, is stewed for tenderness, fried crispy and seasoned with a smoldering red pepper paste.
Kuhn curry, or shrimp curry, may be found along Yaowarat Road, the central artery of Bangkok’s Chinese community. Stirring eggs, like egg drop soup, adds to the attractive bleeding of creamy yellow curry. Traditional Chinatown cuisine with Thai flavors is more than the sum of those parts.
No matter how far you go along the side streets and back alleys of Soothr’s menu, you will probably be returned to the noodles.
Inside the rich rice noodles is translucent rice noodles, brightened by a pile of finely chopped basil and fortified with a chunk of beef stewed with the meatballs that made the way Watanawon Watt.
Again, a creamy and spicy rice noodle with rice noodles and pork blood. Once a rumor in New York, blood soups are now easier to find and please those who appreciate how the almost velvety texture softens the attractive spices.
In a puddle of thick, dark soybean gravy sauce, there is a wide, flat egg noodle with a pink crispy oval of roast duck and steamed duck. It is between dry soup and full-on soup.
However, summer isn’t over yet, and I still feel the charm of real dry soup like Bamiip. According to the restaurant, it’s another dish that has debt to Chinese food. Put roast pork on egg noodles and add black soybeans for a moist and sticky taste. The name means crab noodles, the very delicious crab mountain is the center of the dish, and I’m not sure exactly why the combination of crab meat, roast pork and black soy sauce is so good, but I can always do it. When it cools, it will come back to another bowl.